Teach Soap

Im interested in making my own soap, but I have some questions.

Since it will just be for personal use, how small of a batch would you recommend starting with? (if it makes a difference, I have an accurate kitchen scale, and work in a lab, so I'm comfortable working with chemicals.)

What is the shelf life of cold process soap? Will using Shea and cocoa butter affect that? I figure by the time I get comfortable and play with some colors and fragrances...I'll end up with a closet full of soap that will take me 10 years to use up.

I have an 18 month old daughter, and I'm irrationally terrified of using bad soap on her. I know you can do the zap test, but I'm a big pansy, and it sounds unpleasant. Are there alternatives? Can I use litmus paper? What pH should it be? Is there anything else I should be aware of when making soap for her? I don't plan on using essential oils. Are there any other quality control measures I should be taking?

I read not to use glass containers, especially for lye. I try to avoid plastic when I can...can I use stainless steel (assuming I can find an acceptable one)? Glazed ceramic? I have a utility sink in our laundry room, so I will probably do everything with the lye in there, so if I end up spilling a little, it should still make for easy cleanup.


I've ordered the Everything Soapmaking book, are there any other books you recommend?

Thank you for putting up with my insanity. I'm sure there will be more to come.

If you have an accurate scale, I would make a 1 lb. batch and convert it to grams fo better accuracy. Run your recipe through a lye calculator and superfat at least 7%. Add all you ingredients right up front. There is no need to add oils or butters at trace, since lye is very active at this point and it will take whatever it wants. Stainless steel is fine if you don't want to use plastic. Do not use glazed ceramic! Lye will seep into the porous surface or eat up the glaze.

I have soaps that my mother made over 10 years ago and they are fine. Just as long as you have a good recipe and use oils or butters will a good shelf life you will be fine. The zap test with your tongue is not as bad as it sounds. Just dampen your finger with water, touch it to your soap, then touch that finger to your tongue. If there is any left over lye in the soap, the zap is like licking a battery or like a snapping rubber band on your skin.

Alicia's book is a good start. Good luck on your batch!

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Thank you.

Couple more questions. Do I need to get a stick blender? How long will most soaps take to trace without one? I could use the arm workout anyway.

I'm confused reading about soaps that overheat even when immediately put in the freezer, whereas some recipes state to insulate the soap after pouring. When do you put soap in the freezer, and when do you insulate?

Thanks again.

Stick blender is preferable. Depending on your recipe, you could be stirring for a very loooong time; sometimes hours. Some soaps tend to overheat due to honey or natural sugars from milk. Some fragrances with spices or florals can also accelerate trace or overheat the batch. You will need to experiment and see what works for you.

I don't insulate since I prefer not to gel my soaps. Some of my soaps go in the fridge. Some go in the freezer.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

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The Soapinatrix! *whip-crack*
- Posting the trials and tribulations of my Soaping Journey!

Stick blender it is.

What are the pros and cons of allowing soap to gel?

Gelled soap is slightly transparent, the colours are brighter, and you can unmold and cut a little bit sooner as saponification occurs faster with increased temperature. Ungelled soap has more muted tones, it quite opaque, and needs to stay in the mold for up to 3 days for saponification to finish.

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

Personal preference mostly. Some say they like the feel of the soap one way or another. I make all milk soaps, so gelling is not really an option for me.

A gelled soap can be unmolded quicker. Mine take about 3 days before they cut and such as they are usually softer and can still be zappy due to no gelling.

_________________
The Soapinatrix! *whip-crack*
- Posting the trials and tribulations of my Soaping Journey!

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Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!

As for your dtr... once you are comfortable with the process you may choose to have her use your soap. Try it for yourself first. It can be far better for her skin than what is sold at the grocery or dept store. Once you decide she could use your soap do one that is uncolored and unscented. It is difficult to get a CP soap to be tearfree so becareful of little eyes.

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Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

Can I get your opinions on these recipes?


http://www.otionsoap.com/blog/2012/08/2 ... tile-soap/


http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body- ... -tutorial/
It says this one is intermediate, but I was planning on making a loaf without the whipped topping, so it shouldn't be too hard, right? The only tricky thing is a fast trace?

Aloe vera as part of your liquid is not for newbies. Make a 1 lb. batch (converted to grams) with 95% olive and 5% castor. No fragrance, no color, no milk or aloe. Run it through a lye calc and use the full water amount. That will give you more time to know what trace looks like. You will need a stick blender for this one. Superfat at 7% and soap at around 110-115 degrees (US).

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I agree with the latest post of Irena. I have even made 400 gr batches and it works.
However, for the first trials I would not exceed 3-4% superfat.
Stick blender is necessary and regarding the prices, it's really worth to invest in that part instead of using your arm and getting frustrated why the soap does not come to a trace.

I wish you joy and success.

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Genius is 1 % inspiration and 99 % perspiration

You can get stick blenders cheaply on ebay, or at stores like Target/Walmart/KMart or on-line vendors like Amazon.

I'm with Irena on the 7% SF. I would find 3-4% to be too drying.

If you do go with 95% Olive and 5% castor, it will take a good long while to cure and be at its best. But it should be mild enough for your little one and will be worth the wait.