Teach Soap

I have thought about this as well and this is what I came up with: I am not really sure it needs to be on the list since the soap makes its own glycerin and we do not list that, but if there is room on the label I put it on there just in case someone has some kinsd of reaction to it. I do not believe there is a substance in this world that someone is not allergic to.

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Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

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www.fostersfields.ca
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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

I meant in my soap recipe:0)[/quote]

Sorry about that. Guess I had that 'glycerine being listed on the label' in my head. I do not add it to my recipe as Heather said, it is such a small amount. I have never had it do something bad to my soap - (waving the magic wand to keep the soap gremlins away!).

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Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

I use very different ammounts of oxides to get the right colors for my soaps. The Violet oxide is a tough, one too little and the soap turns gray . I add a little blue to it and get better results. Now the crome green oxide takes very little to get great color as does the merlo mica. Thats just my 2 cents, good luck

I made a newbie mistake and mistook an oxide for a "natural" pigment by assuming it needed to be infused in the oil and added 1 tbsp to 5 oz of olive oil. My question is, when you hold back a little bit of oil to dissolve the oxide, how do you account for that in your lye calculation? I'm assuming you set that bit aside and bring the rest up to trace, then add the oxide/oil mix. But don't you need to trace the rest of the oil after that? Or do you just add it, mix a lil, then pour? Sorry if this is off the original topic and a totally stupid question, but I really appreciate any help!

You use some of the batch oils to mix the pigment in, it takes very little!

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

I remember extracting my own Ultramarine from Lapis Lazuli that I powdered for days in a mortar and pestle. I had to put the mineral powder into wax, then stir the hot wax in a hot lye solution of lye from wood ashes. Since true ultramarine is water soluble while the remaining minerals are mostly oil loving the extra polar KOH solution picks up the pigment. I then had to wait for the blue to settle to the bottom and flush away the lye in a few changes of water. It makes me really appreciate how cheap synthetic Ultramarine is. All this boils down to is that I can say from experience, ultramarine is happier in water than in oil.

I then spent days tapping a thorn on a stick into my left upper arm to give myself a tattoo with that hard earned ultramarine dispersed in rendered squirrel fat. Apparently that water soluble property means it doesn't make a good tattoo ink, as it faded to nothing within a year. A lot of pain and toil and blood spilled for nothing.

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Just call me "Apo"

I love my Apricot Kernal Oil Dissolves everything for me.

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The Soapinatrix! *whip-crack*
- Posting the trials and tribulations of my Soaping Journey!