Teach Soap

I've started developing a formula, so I'm experimenting. The coconut oil didn't make me happy as previously noted.
I replaced the coconut oil with the same % amount of kpnangan butter, now 7.5%, also upped the stearic acid to 5%, and changed the emulsifier system from glycerol stearate / polysorbate 20, to glycol distearate / glycerol stearate / polysorbate 20, calculated on the HLB method in each case.

Emulsification has been perfect with no tendency to separate. Without the coconut oil, I no longer get the effect of an oily film on the skin for hours. It takes about 30 - 45 minutes to absorb, but then it leaves the skin very flexible and hydrated, with the typical 'dry powdery' feel you get from kpnangan butter. At the moment I'm not using any polymers or other specialist thickeners, and it's quite a thick cream below about 16C. The application feel needs improving; it has insufficient glide and it seems too watery even though it's quite rich in lipids.

The lipids are: kpnangan butter, capric/caprylic triglycerides, vitamin E, jojoba oil, stearic acid.

If it feels too watery could you up the % of stearic acid?

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I'd like to. I'll try it and see what happens. I don't want to use cetyl alc. because this is a face cream.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Why do you avoid applying Tylose, Carbomer, Guar or xanthan gum? Is there any specific reason?
They are actually emulsion stabilizers and viscosity enhancers, as you mentioned yourself, but add to the feel as well without any need to apply more oil or more emulsifier. the application dosage is much lower than that of emulsifier (0,1-0,2% would suffice). They contribute quite pretty to the sensory effects.

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Genius is 1 % inspiration and 99 % perspiration

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

I just made a beautiful cream for my face. I have been using it for a week now and I absolutely love it. Nice and creamy, applies nicely, soaks in after a few minutes and is not heavy.

60% Distilled Water
5% E-wax
5% Stearic Acid
2% Coco Butter
14% Sunflower Oil
14% Jojoba Oil
.5% Phenonip
.5% EO

It has not changed consistency either. I heated both the water and oils to around 70 degrees C and held it for 20 minutes or so. Then I let it cool to around 32 degrees C if I remember correctly. Well, then you know the rest of the process. It works beautifully. My husband doesn't like the smell I chose (lavender and patchouli eo's) but I like it just fine. He likes it in my tattoo balm that I make but I don't know why he doesn't like it in my face cream. He said I smell like soap.

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Haven

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

hvrba, thanks for the recipe. Try replacing the coco butter with shea - the retinol in the shea will help remove photo-aging spots and fine lines.

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

I agree with you on the shea vs cocoa. I only had cocoa on hand though. As soon as there is more $$ for supplies, I plan on ordering some. I have a $500 wishlist at BB right now.

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Haven

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

After a few weeks, the customer will be able to see for themselves! Then they'll be back for more, I hope.