Teach Soap

I'm a relatively new soaper, and I had been using LotP colors and bases to start with. I was immediately hooked, and I ordered some Brambleberry colors for some soaps I made for a bridal shower. I used BB liquid black and liquid pink, both of which are sold as non-bleeding. But they bled

So, some questions -

1. How much does temperature affect bleeding, if at all? I have a bad habit of pouring layers at 140 or so, and while I've never had a problem with layers mixing, I worry that it's messing with my colors. Could that "bleeding" be just a little tiny bit of layer mixing? I just get so impatient

2. Does the base affect the color bleed? I am currently using LotP bases, and am going to get some BB bases next payday. It seems like white bases are effected more than clear, but it could just be more noticeable.

3. I have used (once) a brown oxide pigment, but haven't used in a mix yet. How do you guys mix it in well with the base? Do you mix it with alcohol before mixing? What is too much alcohol?

Thanks everyone! I love soaping!

Hi, Sateryn. Hmm, I've never had a problem with BB's liquid oxides bleeding. D&C colors will often bleed, but oxides should not. (BB's liquid black and liquid pink are oxides dispersed in glycerin.)

I wonder if it is possible that your layers are melting into each other and it looks like the color is bleeding? 140 degrees is awfully hot to pour - I usually pour around 115 degrees or else I melt everything and get wispy lines from the previous layer floating into my new layer.

As far as bases go, I wouldn't think it would matter which base you use, but it has been a long time since I've used anything other than SFIC base (which BB sells as their Bramble Berry base). I used LotP bases once when I bought a kit at my craft store just to see if I liked this whole soaping thing. After that, I stuck with SFIC bases. (SFIC is the manufacturer of the base.) I do think that BB's bases are of a much higher quality than LotP bases, so I think you will pleased with your purchase.

For using powdered oxides in melt-and-pour, I usually mix them with a bit of rubbing alcohol in a small bowl or cup. I use just enough alcohol to mix easily, usually five or six squirts with a spray bottle. If it's still too clumpy, just add another squirt or two until it gets just wet enough to mix.

Hope that helps! Have fun soaping!

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- Jenny -
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I'm not sure, but aren't LotP bases syndet bases? If so, that might have something to do with the color bleeding. I have used BB bases with oxides and ultramarines and have had bleeding.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Yes, 140 degrees is way too hot to pour.

jrose - how do you pour at 115F? My soap starts to form a skin and/or forms a ring around the cup once I hit around 122-124F. Once I let it get to 120 F and it got so clumpy I had to reheat and start over. I'm almost constantly stirring it, is that the problem?

And I've been using BB's non-bleeding oxides for a few weeks now, no bleeding here either!

The bases from craft stores are nowhere near the quality of the Brambleberry & SFIC bases so they set up much more quickly. I will NEVER use them again-they aren't worth the money. I do mostly CP, but still like to do MP once in awhile.

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Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!

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- Jenny -
My soapy blog:
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Craft store MP base is not a good quality. Many people have reported problems with craft store base setting up way too quickly. Get yourself a quality base from BrambleBerry.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I use clarinol palm-free bases as I'm in the UK (and don't see the point of using up valuable rainforest if I don't have to!), and I can order that here. I don't seem to have any problem with bleeding when I use micas. I've used other colours in the past which have bled, but now I tend to stick with the micas, and that works pretty well! I pour before it gets a skin, but I usually let it cool a little, (often by the time I've added my scent etc then it's ok to pour.) Make sure your previous layer has set enough before pouring the next one... as then you might get them mixing. Don't forget to spritz rubbing alcohol too!

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"The question is: does it work on stage? If it works on stage, does it fit the theory? If it works on stage, but doesn't fit the theory; throw out the theory." Bertolt Brecht