Teach Soap

Alright, on my potasium hydroxide soap, I had my nephew come over and take a Ph test , =
He took a sample of my water,(from the tap ) and it tested 8.o, then he mixed in a sample of my soap ,(soft balls ) it tested 11.3,, ( in the same water ) .
Then we repeted the test ,First a sample of the tap water, ( 8.o ) then mixed in my body soap ,( hard ) into the tap water, and it came out,,,,9.5.
So my questions are , (1 ) is this the proper way to do the test with an electronic Ph tester?
and ( 2 ) is this aceptible test results for my two different soaps?

Do you have hard water? How much did you superfat your soap at? Was the pH meter properly calibrated? All your readings seem higher then they should be. Normally, handmade soap is in the 9 pH range. Water should have a lower reading too.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Superfatting is needed so the soap is not harsh, or doesn't burn your skin. Oils/butters react with lye and when all the lye is spent, any extra oils or butters will end up as your superfat. Superfatting creates a milder soap. Soaps with a 0% superfat are used for laundry since they are extremely cleansing and strip away any extra oils, like from clothes. You need a mild soap with around 7% superfat, so it's safe to use on the skin.

There is no need to add any superfatting oils or butters at trace, as the raw soap is still quite active at this point and the lye will take whatever it wants. The exception to this would be if you are adding any oils or butters AFTER the cook. So calculate all your oils up front and add them all together at the beginning.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.