Teach Soap

Whatever you can answer would be super helpful.

GENERAL SOAPING QUESTIONS:
1. Regarding lye. I’ve read that there are several different methods that can be used to create sodium hydroxide. Some of which leave traces of asbestos, mercury, or aluminum in the final product. Not a lot, but still there. One of the methods which is more expensive, but less used, can avoid this (and I’m assuming that this is what “food grade” lye is). My concern of course is whether the final bar will be leaching these toxins if I just buy the hardware store 99% lye.
2. Glass vs. wood vs. stainless steel. What bowl do you use to make your lye water in? What spoon do you use to mix it with? Why?

HOT PROCESS QUESTIONS:
If you can please only answer the below in terms of Hot Process rules; I know things are much different in Cold Process.
1. What, if any, are the ranges for mixing temps of the lye water and oil mixture? I’ve heard of ranges between 90-110 and 120-130? Does the temp range make a difference in the final consistency or otherwise? P.s. I also heard that the actual temp when mixing the two is not relevant in HP. Your thoughts?
2. Does the thickness of trace at cooktime affect the final bar? If yes, how?
3. Stainless steel vs. wood. What spoon do you use for mixing the hot process soap mixture in the crockpot. I’ve heard (?) that wood could react with the lye and could cause it to chip, leaving woodchips in the soap.
4. Do you or do you not mix your soap while it’s cooking in the crockpot? I’ve read that you should in order to create an even cook; and I’ve read that you shouldn’t touch it till it’s done. What do you do? Why?
5. When making up a recipe, how does one know the cooking time for it? I’ve seen recipes that call for 30 minutes in the crock and recipes that call for 1.5 hours. That’s a huge difference.
6. Is it ok to scrape off the hardened soap on the sides of the crockpot and use it in your batch? Will it affect the batch in any way?
7. Is it advisable to wait for the soap to cool before I cover it? (I know HP doesn’t need snuggling, but good to cover it to avoid dust, etc. for first day).
8. Fats vs. additives. I’m not clear on whether certain ingredients are considered a fat (that is, that it is melted in the beginning of the soaping process) or an additive. For example: fats, butters, oils, are all considered a “fat” and clays, herbs, etc. are considered additives. A fat by definition (I think) has a SAP value. But I’m confused because jojoba and beeswax also have a SAP value and they are not fats. So my question is if anything then can be saponified? Let’s say sea mud, can it be melted into the oils and be saponifed in the beginning?
9. Biggest question of all: To cure or not to cure HP, that is the question. So. I’ve been told every answer possible for this question so far (Yes the full 4-6 weeks, No it doesn’t need it at all, Yes but only half the time of CP, It depends on the oils used, etc). Here’s the real question though, What (if any) affect does curing HP soap do? Please only answer this if you have personally experienced the process of both curing and not curing HP and have seen/felt what it does yourself.
A second part to the above question. Once a bar of soap is used, it is no longer in cure stage, correct? Meaning, a 6 week old bar (even if only used once) has the same qualities of a day old bar?
LOTS of thanks in advance.

Some of these questions are answered in the sticky I wrote: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3800
I have never heard of traces of asbestos, mercury, or aluminum in the final product. Where did you get this info?
Never use glass! Lye etches glass and creates microtears. Over time this weakens the glass and the glass can shatter.
I use a Rubbermaid pitcher for the lye water. It is made of polypropylene plastic and is safe to use with lye.
For mixing oils and lye, I use a true stainless steel pot.
For HP and depending on the size of the batch, I go anywhere from 110 to 137 degrees.
The thickness at trace has nothing to do with the final bar. You are cooking it.
Do not use a wooden spoon in soapmaking. Lye weakens the wood and you will end up with splinters in your soap.
For mixing the soap in the crockpot I use a silicone spoon and spatula. Metal spoon can scratch the crockpot.
For mixing oils and lye I use a stainless steel stick blender.
The cooking time is more dependent on the size of the batch and not which oils or butters you use.
I stir my batch throughout, so I don't get hardened bits on the sides. You can, but your soap will look more rustic.
Once the cooked soap is in the mold, I don't cover it, so it can cool off faster.
Anything with a SAP value will saponify. Sea mud will not. that's an additive. Sea mud is water based. You're going to have a hard time mixing oils with a water based ingredient.
I would add it to either your cooled off lye water or as soon as the soap is starting to cook.
I cure all my soaps (whether CP or HP) for 4-6 weeks. According to Kevin Dunn, who wrote the book on Scientific Soapmaking, soap's pH changes slightly lower as the soap cures, creating a milder bar.
I cannot use a newly made soap. My skin finds it irritating. That same soap is fine after a full cure.
A 6 week old soap is NOT the same as a 1 day old soap.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.