Break the Rules Soap

Cold Process Soap Recipe by Leila Gaines

GOAL: The goal here was to have a 2-oil soap with outrageous lather and no-less outrageous skin pampering.

I also wanted to disprove for myself some of the various basic principles all soapmakers are told:

1) INS numbers should be within a certain range: This soap is wonderfully out of range.
2) You should balance your “hard” oils and your “soft” oils 50-50. Well, how does 98-2 grab you?
3) You should never have more than 30% coconut. Baloney.

So this is a break-the-rules soap. You won’t be sorry you tried it!

Your base ingredients – 1500g batch – 12 bars approx.

Coconut Oil – 1095g (73%)
Cocoa Butter – 375g (25%)
Frozen Goats Milk – 500g (frozen in baggies)
Lye – 238g
Pearberry Fragrance Oil – 45g

(While Pearberry is very well-behaved, it might hasten things a bit. If you are using the above proportions of liquid to lye, work quickly. If you prefer to work more slowly, add 150g of goat milk or water to your lye bath).

Notes on cocoa butter:  Cocoa Butter can form white streaks in soap (as well as food, incidently) unless it is properly tempered.

Making the soap

1. Melt your cocoa butter and hold at 130F for 20 minutes. Melt coconut oil. Cool all oils to 100F.
2. Break up chunks of goatmilk into your container, and place container in an icewater bath. Add your lye little by little, stirring constantly. You do not want to scorch the milk (which will turn orange and smell disgusting). You also want to keep things as cool as possible, hence the icebath. Keep temperature to about 90-95F
3. Quickly add lye solutions to cooled oils. Buzz with stickblender no more than 3 seconds, hand stir to very light trace. Add fragrance, stir quickly and pour into molds.
4. If you used above proportions of milk to lye, you should unmold no more than 8 hours after pouring. If you added more liquid, wait about 12 hours. In any event, unmold and cut as soon as it’s cool. Do not insulate your mold.

While this soap is very hard very quickly, you won’t be sorry to give it a good long cure.


“I must tell you, THANK YOU. I made Break the Rules soap,and by the way this is the first soap I ever made, other than M&P. It came out wonderful. I even rebatched half of it and added ground luffa to it. This is the most wonderful exfoliating moisturizing bar I have ever used.

Thanks so much for giving me the courage to make soap. And the best soap I have ever used.

GREAT BIG Thanks!”…… from N.S. in Florida