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Teach Soap • View topic - HP Castille not going through the "phases"

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:00 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Burlington Vermont
So, my first batch of HP was a disaster because the crock pot broke :evil: . My second batch in a working crock pot went through all the phases it was supposed to :D . My third batch, in the working crock pot, did something weird :? . It was a pure castille with 8% superfat. I had the crock pot on high. I brought it to a heavy trace, and kept on stirring it with a whisk occasionally. I had withheld the oil I needed to make up the 8% superfat as an infused mugwort oil so what I had in the pot was 0% superfat. The traced soap kept on thickening, until it hit neutrality and the glopy finished HP soap stage. I tested for zap and it was neutral, so I added my superfatting oil, fragrance, and molded it. It never went through apple sauce, or folding in on itself bubbling stages. I was disappointed in this since I was really looking forward to shortening the cure time on this castille with all the water lost through HP as it bubbles. Any clues as to what happened? Did I overblend, or does 0% superfat not go through the usual HP stages? OH, I also added one teaspoon of kosher salt to the lye solution for this two pound batch.

In any case the scraps lather fine for a castille and should make for a nice winter bar that will be easy on my dry skin. Since starting soaping, even though I use 8% superfat my love of hot showers and using the soap everywhere has lead to some itchiness and inflammation on my forearms. :roll:

EDIT! Just cut the soap, INCREDIBLY BRITTLE! Once again I have a batch of HP that I fear I shall have to rebatch. *headdesk*

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 3:56 pm 
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I presume you have an accurate scale? I would check it to make sure. I don't add any so called superfatting oil or butter after. I add everything right up front. Be VERY careful with mugwort! That's not something I would add to soap. When I do crockpot soap, I stir at about every 10 minutes. I cook on low and don't let it turn itself over. I bet it was the 0% superfat you did at the beginning that made the soap brittle. You can try to rebatch at this point, but the soap will most likely be drying.

If it was just a small batch, I would toss it and start over. Why waste more ingredients and more time for something that still might not come out right.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:20 pm 
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Location: Southern NJ!
My first batch of HP didn't go through any of the expected phases either! And it was done super fast, under 20 minutes! I never did figure out what happened to it. :( It still works fine, nice lather and all, just feels ultra light... like marshmallow! All full of air. Someday I'll try and figure it out! :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:57 am 

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:42 pm
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I have been doing strickly HP now for about a year ,that does not make me an expert but allow me to share my experience. First of all I never cook my soap on high heat , I melt my oils in the crock on WARM, that sucker still gets plenty hot,nothing wrong with a nice gentle cook. Every batch can fluctuate in it's stages, i'm sure a staight castille is going to cook differently than say a 4 oil batch,I have avoided a staight castille until I became really familiar with HP so i know what to look for and what is ok and not ok. About supperfatting, it seems to me that a discount of 8% should be sufficiant in itself without adding it after the cook as this is a 100% olive oil soap you don't need to add anything at the end,what does soapcalc give you for a conditioning number ? it must be fairly high. I never add my EXTRAS during the cook or at trace, i always add after the cook ,this includes any dry additives as well as cream or milk or shea and cocoa butters. I don't know what soapbuddy means when she says she doesnt allow the soap to turn over ,it's a little more complicated than that. If what happened to you happened to me I would put that soap cut up in small chuncks back n the crock on the lowest setting you have, For a small 2 lb batch I would add 2 tablespoons of disstilled water,let it cook and get soft again if youu need another tablespoon of water use it, I would add only about a half ounce of olive oil to the batch when it has become end stage cooked again and stir the crap ot of it. Also I have found that salt in my HP makes a more brittle bar of soap I will not use it again however I find that sugar added to my water prior to adding lye helps create more bubbles and I use it every batch along with Tussah Silk. The more batches you make the better you will get at recognizing the MANY variables involved with HP. Check ot my website at pixiemingsoapcompany.weebly.com I hop this helped some and I love HP soap making!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:45 am 

Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 10:19 pm
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Location: SLC, UT
My HP soap never goes through the appropriate stages, but it's always neutral by the end. I never get that transluscent gel, it always goes to a foamy paste and stays there. But, it (the soap) always works like it's supposed to...

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:22 am
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Location: Northern Nevada
Sorry about your batch, Apo! My HP experience isn't vast but I agree you should cook it on low. Also, if you cook too long it will be neutral but brittle. My HP Castille with gm is cooked on low and if it's cooked too long, it will fall apart when cut. :oops:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:24 am 
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Location: Burlington Vermont

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:26 am 
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Location: Burlington Vermont

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:30 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:41 pm 

Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:42 pm
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OMG I just saw your from burlington? Most of my family are in ST.ALBANS, Enousburg, Enousburg Falls, Swanton ect. My dad used to own a store on Lake St. in ST. Albans,right on the way to Lake Champlain. I FREAKEN LOVE VERMONT!!!! :D


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