Teach Soap

Hi,
I've looked around the forum and I have not found any information on hot process soap making, particularly crockpot hot process soap making. Does anyone know how to safely tell when the soap is done cooking and the lye is no longer caustic? I've read people's comments elsewhere where they do a "zap test"-taking a small amount of soap and touching it to the tongue to see if they get a zap. I'm not really wanting to do that haha. Any ideas??

Thanks!
BrookeLynn

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BrookeLynn

"Courage is being scared to death, and saddling up anyway."

That's pretty much your only option other than purchasing PH testing strips or phenolphthalein. The tongue zap test isn't dangerous. I was reluctant the first couple of times I tried it, holding my spatula in front of my face trying to build up the nerve. But after a while it's old hat and you just do it.

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Laura<3

You can zap test by dampening your finger, rub it on your soap, then lightly touch that finger to your tongue. The tongue is much more sensitive then any strips. For the rare time that I do soap in a crock pot, it takes about 45 minutes for a 2-3 lb. batch. I do stir from time to time. I cook on low, so I don't get the volcano.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Haha, I just realized I've been replying to posts using "PM"-private messaging. I guess I'm supposed to hit "Reply".

Anyway, thanks for the tips I can't wait until I feel like I know what I am doing

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BrookeLynn

"Courage is being scared to death, and saddling up anyway."

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Laura<3

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I started off with cold process but once I discovered how easy hot process in a crock pot was - I was hooked. I do all my soaps this way now, no waiting for oils and lye to reach the same temperature and unless I want to do a fancy soap I use the crock pot every time. Its a life saver for soaps that usually overheat in the mould like goats milk, honey or beer soaps.
I usually do the tongue test but also once the soap has gelled in the pot its usually ready - you can take a small bit of the hot soap and let it cool and then try it under the water to see if it lathers - usually that is an indicator that its ready. I find some soaps are hard and ready to use the next day but some still need 2 to 4 weeks of drying out time before use.
Viv

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Genny

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Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!

So going back to the basics.... what is the purpose of having the oil and lye within approx 10 degrees of each other? I could get out my soap books but I'm just too tired from working extra hours. Finally made a batch of soap tonight... first in almost a month.
So if someone has the answer I would appreciate it.

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Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

For Bubbles2 and seibert7kids

Please correct me if I am wrong...

From my experience with Cold Process...not only do you want your Lye Solution and Oils
to be within 10 Deg of each other, you also want them to be below 110Deg when you mix them.

Otherwise, after you have poured it into your Mold, it could start to Gel and Expand into a messy goo.
Even then, the saponification process could also start a reaction and cause your mixture to start heating
on its own, and start to gel. (Also...a lot of this depends on your recipe and the oils that you use)

I use a sealed 3" pvc tube as my mold, and have been putting it in the sink with cold water to stop
this process from happening.

With Hot Process...the temp's don't matter as much since you are going to heat the batch anyway.

Dave

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Carrie
Wife to my Best Friend and Homeschool mom to 7 beautiful gifts

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Genny

seibert7kids

I'm thinking its to insure you have a stable temp when mixing the Lye Solution into your oils.

Say your Oils are at 110 Deg...and you mix in your Lye Solution, which is at 150 Deg.
That could bump up your over-all temp well over 110 Deg and accelerate the Saponification Process.

Dave