Teach Soap

I bought some Plantapon LGC Sorb. It had to come from DF using package service. Anyway.
First impressions: It's thick and gloppy, has a lovely smooth glide feeling on the skin. Foam rather slower to develop and less than common anionics, but perfectly adequate and I think I will be able to improve it with the right blend proportions. Looks like an excellent candidate for sulphate-free shampoos.

So, is it time to play some more?

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Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

Yes. I just did tests to see what thickens with the salt curve and what doesn't:
1. Sodium cocoamphoacetate (Dehyton G) - NO (amphoteric)
2. Plantapon LG Sorb: NO (anionic)
3. Cocoamidopropyl betaine: NO (amphoteric)
4. Dehyton AB-30: NO (amphoteric)
5. Akypo RLM 45 CA (lauric carboxylic acid) YES. pH dependent. Comes as a free acid, pH = 3, anionic at acidic pH, but when neutralised it's anionic.

The main thing when formulating sulphate-free shampoos is the thickening problem. For instance it is easy to make a good shampoo with the Plantapon, just use say 15% Plantapon, 7% coco betaine and 5% sodium cocoamphoacetate. Great. Works wonderfully, no eye irritation, completely 'green'. Unfortunately it isn't thick. So it's necessary to use a thickener such as a cross-linked polymer like Carbopol Ultrez-20. The polymer has its plus and minus sides though. It gives the product a really nice feel, and it can suspend mica perfectly, but it can also suspend any air bubbles you mix into it so that they are there for ever!
For reference purposes the costs are:
Dehyton G: approx $6/kilo
Plantapon: approx. $6.50/kilo
Akypo RLM 45CA: approx $6.25/kilo

to which we need to add cost of additives such as panthenol, keratin, vitamin E, whatever . . .

I've got some AKYPO arriving in a couple of weeks, so I will first try the Plantapon using a thickener, then later try the AKYPO with the Plantapon as secondary surfactant to see if I can thicken without a polymer.

I have a handmade shampoo in the shower that's thin and it works very well. It's too bad the general public has been taught that shampoo must be thick.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

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Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!