Teach Soap

Terribly frustrating trying to make clears. Of course I can make a clear shampoo in minutes that will work fine, but have no fragrance. That's not much use.
The first problem is NOT to use Tween-20. It kills the viscosity curve. However, the Dehyton-G will effectively emulsify the FO. So I have been doing tests on FOs to see which might work for a clear. In each case I added about a 1/2 tsp of FO to a small beaker, added 1tsp of Dehyton G, and mixed. Then added 50mL of water and mixed. Clear or milky? Results:

1. pear: milky
2. apple: milky
3. almond: marginal. slight cloud
4. cherry: clear
5. kiwi: milky
6. orange: very milky, and it thickened the mixture noticeably good for a cream shampoo
7. melon+kiwi: marginal, a bit too cloudy
8. chocolate: milky
9. mango: milky

all the above are IFF fragrances.
I tested one from Wellington Fragrance: cherry almond. This was good, completely clear.

Also from a local supplier (unknown brand) I tested:
10. vanilla: milky, and turned the surfactant to water.
11. coconut: milky, and, strangely, turned a yellowy-white instead of pure white.

and BrambleBerry:

12. lime: milky. thickened, so good for cream shampoo.
13. blackberry: milky
14. litsea cubeba: milky

It appears to me that it is difficult to find fragrance oils that can be used in clear shampoos.

Yes it is hard as each fragrance has different components. Same fragrance from a different vendor can end up with different results. The only true way to know is to try a small sample batch.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

At least I have one, cherry, that I can experiment with. Takes ages doing all these tests.

My rep visited me this morning and brought two male fragrances for me, Cuomo Blue and Drax Black. Rather nice. Of course I tested them immediately to see if they would make a clear, but no. Milky. However the nice rep has asked IFF for a short list of anything I can use to make clears.
I did an experiment with the cherry and made 100mL of it using a 22-9-4 formula, so far so good.
The ratios between surfactants are really critical! 22% = ALS, 9% = Dehyton KB, (cocoamidopropyl betaine) and the 4% = Dehyton G, this last one is a great thickener and emulsifier.
I also got samples of Carbopol Ultrez-20 and Aqua SF-1 for the sulfate-free experiments.

I could be wrong, but it has been my understanding that you need to neutralize the pH of the Carbopol Ultrez-20 first before use. In which direction I don't know, as it has been some time since I used it.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

You're right, I think, although since I haven't used it previously I will have to consult the product info sheets. I have 940 and that goes to pH 3 or so in water, and thickens when you neutralise. But 940 isn't great for shampoos. Apparently Ultrez-20 has a better pH range and also wets much more easily.
The Aqua SF-1 comes as a milky liquid, pH about 3. You add it, then neutralize to pH 7. Then later (this is specifically a shampoo cross polymer) when you re-acidify, the viscosity increases rapidly. It's called back-acid thickening, apparently. The only problem is that Aqua SF-1 only has a 6 month life, and comes in 220 Kg drums, and so the distributor only distributes twice a year . . .

Quite funny. I emailed Wellington fragrances to see if they knew which ones emulsify to clear.
The response: they expect me to buy loads of 1/2 oz sample bottles and test them all myself!
No thanks, guys, my I.F.F. rep provides me with 1/2 oz samples free, and happily notes my test results for future reference.

Why would Wellington even think about hiring someone to test their fragrances if they can have someone pay to do it for them? Very sad buisness practice. If you are willing to share the results with them I would think they should jump at the chance to have your help.

_________________
Susie
Sometimes A Mistake is so much fun, You just have to do it again!

I thought it was not a good attitude. I prefer to buy from people who actually use/test their products, and so, can advise. Or at the least, supply small samples free so that you can test and report back. My rep brought me a kilo of Cherry that I ordered and also another sample called Poire, which is an apple/pear combo I believe. I need to test it. Brambleberry's micas give the most wonderful pearlescent effect in clear shampoo. They make the cream shampoo look very luxurious too.

I've been refining my experiment and find a few different results. Some FOs will emulsify and then combine with water to clear; some will emulsify and clear when an additional surfactant, typically anionic, is added; more, in general, won't clear.