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Teach Soap • View topic - Bleeding vs. Non-Bleeding Colorant

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:15 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Berkeley, Ca.
I'm a newbie and I'm enjoying learning so much. I just got laid off from my high tech job and am with all this available time now - I'm totally loving being engaged in melt and pour crafting. Thanks to all who provide such useful information on this sight.

My question - what paticular types or styles of soap do you craft using bleeding or non-bleeing colorant?

I recently made a bar of soap with these small red chunks and they bled into the clear olive oil base I used - needless to say you can't really see the chunks anymore and am learning by trial and error. I also made a loaf soap with three colored layers and that did not seem to bleed (as of yet) using bleeding colorant. Is it possibly because of the loaf soap with the skin that forms between each layer it's either not going to happen or happen very slowly?

Thanks.
Hilary

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:48 pm 
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Location: Mistress Of Lather
FD&C colors will migrate over time into your soap. Micas are a better choice since they don't bleed.
So depending which colors you used and where you got them from will depend whether the chunks or layers of soap will bleed (or not).

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:53 pm 
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Posts: 348
Location: Wisconsin
Hi there Hilary,

Regardless of the melt & pour soap base you use (high quality or low quality, expensive or cheap), unless you purchase non-bleeding colorants, your colored chunks will bleed.

I suggest using pigments: Oxides & Ultramarines or non-bleeding micas. You can get them in powdered form at Bramble Berry , and quite economically . You just have to read and make sure each color you buy is non-bleeding. Or you can buy them in liquid form from someone like me. I hand mix all my colorants (every single one of which is non-bleeding) into a liquid form before using as it promotes even coloration, i.e., no clumping, is less time consuming but is also more expensive .

I use nothing but my own hand mixed colorants but I also get a LOT of them from Bramble Berry. :)

pj,
http://www.pjsoaps.com/1New.html

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:15 pm
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Location: Berkeley, Ca.
Wow- thanks for the respones!!

I think it's clear now that the style/design I'm going for at the moment requires me to go and buy a set of bright/cheery non-bleeding colors. The colors I have are bright but clearly best perhaps in single soap molds with an imed (or something) and nothing more.

I happen to live in Berkeley and was initially buying all my stuff at a local place called Juniper Tree with reuptable producs (but at retail). I like that store but the reality is now I want to take this up a step so I got a fictcious business name and a resellers license to start so I could also buy in bulk (and sell locally and on etsy). I just happen to be close to SFIC and was able to pick up my soap from them. Now I'm moving onto fixing my 'colorant' issue and then selecting the frangrances (eo and fo) in larger oz. quantities.

I've not bought yet from BB but sounds like that will be my next step in this process (to start). Or follow up with you PJ. I do live near TKB Trading - have any of you used their colorants? I think that is Juniper Trees supplier.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:13 pm 
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Brambleberry has some great micas that don't bleed. http://www.brambleberry.com/micas.aspx
or just buy them from PJ. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:01 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:32 am 
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Location: Berkeley, Ca.
Thanks all for the links and knowledge of your colorants PJ. I did check out TKB trading and they do have specific non-bleeding colorants. While I totally want to support any/all who have been generous in helping me on this - knowing that I can actually ride my bike over to TKB and benefit from my California resellers license -- I'm going to give that a shot. It's apparent I was already using her colorants (from Juniper Tree but not necessarily the non-bleeding ones).

As for BrambleBerry scents - I went through and found them absolutly scrumptous just by their descriptors. I'm going to get about 20 sniffy samples and then make my deciscions.

Again - thanks for everything.
Hilary

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:34 pm 
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You can pre-mix your own non-bleeding colorants using oxides mixed with a bit of rubbing alcohol as well. There are lots of options for you to personalize and make your MP soap awesome.

Here's a tutorial on the pre-mixing oxides:

http://soap-queen.blogspot.com/2008/08/ ... oxide.html

Image

PS - Welcome to the wonderful world of soapmaking. You are going to be delighted with your creations =)

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blog: www.soap-queen.blogspot.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:15 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Berkeley, Ca.
Thanks for the tip on pre-mixing. I see that it is that easy I can add that to my toolbox and get comfortable using the oxides and mixing my own . I just sent off my 15+ sase to BB to get my sniffy samples. I'm focused right now on wrapping up the fragrance aspect so I can move ahead and actually make my soaps. I'm focused on trying my hand at selling my soaps at my kids school carnival. I'll post one of my samples - in the flaunt you soap topic.

Thanks as well for the encouragement Anne-Marie. After 10 years at a high-tech firm and 15 years doing as a technical project manager in financial services - I think it turned out to be the perfect time for a severance package and let the creative juices flow!! I think this is going to generate some fun, uplifiting and delightful creations - I look forward to helping others along the way when I've mastered many designs.

I do have to give note to both The Nova Studio where I took my first class on M&P (in Pt. Richmond, Ca.) and to SopayLove (who taught a class as well at Nova). After those 2 classes I got 'hooked'.

Hilary

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