Teach Soap

I know this has been discussed 100 times, and I looked back in the old topics, but didn't see where anyone specified what would be a good water discount to give 100% castile for a new soaper. I've made 3 batches so far.

I wanted to cut down on the cure time a little and I for sure want it 100% olive since I want to use it as a facial soap...someday.

I would like to make a small batch 1-2lbs.

I think 33% is about as high as I have seen anyone use. My newbie batches (SoapCalc default) were anywhere from 27.6% to 28%. I think over 30% is "real" water discounting.

Also, if you use the Mystic Mountain Sage lye calc, it will give you the full range of water amounts - from high to low.

FYI - I did my castile soap at 29%. Too chicken to go higher!

I would say that depends how many batches you have under your belt. For castile, I can do a 40% lye solution, but that's the only one that I would go as high.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I've never made castile and only have 3 batches of cold process under my belt, so I don't want to discount it a lot, just a little.

So here's my stupid question for the day...Soapcalc has that spot that always defaults to 38% water. Is this where you figure your water discount? And how do you figure it from there? Slightly confused on that, I just always leave it at the default setting.

You need to click on the "Lye concentration" button to the left - then enter your percentage.

Look at the batches you have done and raise your percentage by a couple of points....that's how I arrived at 29% for my first one - my early batches were really weak at 27% or so.

Just had another thought today...has anyone tried making castile soap with honey? Even though it probably wouldn't be considered true castile after that.

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Genny

I guess I'm boring, but I've just always used 34% and superfat at 7%.
Jill

I make it with goat's milk and have added honey a time or two.

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Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!

I made a batch today!!

I did a 2:1 water to lye ratio.

At trace I added honey and ground oatmeal.

Everything worked awesome. It took awhile to trace, maybe 10-15 minutes, but I didn't think that was too horrible.

It's in my freezer right now looking very pretty!

I know this is a Castille recipe, but heads up Katie, as you play with water discounts you may need to cut the soap sooner than you're expecting. I know that I had trouble cutting a water discounted regular recipe 12 hours after pour.

Thanks Robert! I cut it yesterday and I definitley should have done it sooner. It was a little crumbly.
Very strange, I took it out of the freezer and as it melted it got very very soft. Too soft to cut. It stayed that way for a day and then BAM it was hard. I should have cut it a little sooner. I think next time I might let it gell and see what happens.

I get the crumbly edges when I water discount too. That's the primary reason I almost never water discount.

I just took a batch of 80% olive and 20% coconut (fragrance free) off the curing rack this evening (it should be 9 months old at Christmas). I only did a 20% discount and it is cut like firm cheese and is hard as a rock now. I tried one out tonight and it lathers lovely. I can't wait for it to turn one, I hear it's even better...if that's possible.

Shelia

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Shelia
Newbie still learning.....