Teach Soap

It sounds like the base that you have is rebatch? (Ingredients don't sound like melt and pour to me) Either way - the lye has long ago mixed with the oils and is no longer present - it has become soap. =) No worries at all about fumes when you melt the soap down.

Here is a link to some rebatch directions; http://www.teachsoap.com/rebatch.html

and just in case the Melt and Pour directions are here; http://www.teachsoap.com/mp.html

They are not interchangeable - you can either make one or the other.

As far as things not to add.... lets see.... Anything that can mold (if it will mold sitting out on your counter then it will mold in your soap). If it is melt and pour then never add water or anything else that has a lot of water in it.

As far as lye and animal fat... You must have lye to make soap. You can add the lye your self, CP soapmaking or you can get a base like you have, Rebatch or Melt and Pour, where this step has been done for you. Either way there was still lye used in making the soap.

Animal Fats are no longer needed to make soap as we now have things like carriers oils and butters. Back in the day before we had these, soaps were made with animal fats - some still are, and are perfectly fine! It is just not necessary anymore.

Let me know if your base if really melt and pour or rebatch and we can all help some more!

Bramble Mamma
I want to thank you for helping me...It means the world to me. Also I want to say your baby in your activator is just precious...Mine are growing up on me...I have 4 beautiful Daughters...Age: 24.5, 22.5, almost 13 & 10...1 Beautiful 2.5 yr old grandaughter...Cherish them while they are babies...They grow to fast. Love babies...Not that I don't love my girls that are growing or already grown, just loved the baby stages a little more


Can you tell me what rebatch is??? (Yes it's in my books but I still don't understand it all )

That is great that I can use this and not worry about the fumes...Now if I can just figure out how to use it

I will go read the rebatch link (Probably already have and still not understanding it all )


My Goats Milk package is 1 lb of it and here is what my package says: What I posted before &

Instructions for remilling: Grate, chop or shred soap as fine as you can.

Stove top Method: Place soap Shreds in sauce pan with a tight fitting lid. Add 1-2 ounces (Not sure there how much to add either, any help there? I'd hate to waste it by not doing it right, I'm sure I will though through learning) of hot water per lb. of soap.

Heat on low, stir occasionally, checking every 10 minutes, until soap is creamy. Do not boil, be patient. Let cool 10 minutes with the lid on. Add soap fragrance. (Is this when I can add my Essential Oils also if I'm not using Fragrances?)

Microwave: (Tells how to do it in the microwave) I'll be using stove top method

Crock pot: (Tells how to do it in a Crock pot) I'll be using stove top method

Prepare Molds: Spray plastic molds with vegetable spray (Is there a certian kind "name brand" spray I should use?). Spoon into mold, tap on the counter gently to remove air bubbles, and let cool completely. Pop out of mold. It's ready to use.

Adding Fragrance Oils: Add 1/2 to 1 ounce of fragrance oils or up to 1 tablespoon of essential oils per lb of soap.

So can I use this goats milk soap base as a melt & pour (By this I mean, can I just melt and pour this soap into molds??) See I'm so lost aren't I??? Sorry

Does the above help you figure out what I have?? If not let me know what to ask the supplier in order to help you and I will see if they will tell me???
Thanks so much for you wisdom...It is very valueable to me.
Yorkie Hugs Lee

Ok - yes that helps, thanks!

Thank you for your kind words! I never thought you could love something so much - instantly! She is precious and I am getting in all I can... our digital camera has gone through more batteries then you could imagine!

For your soap - You have rebatch. This is basically Cold Process soap that someone else made and you are remelting it so you can personalize it with your own scents and colors. You pretty much are melting it down and then pouring into your molds, yes.

You should do the soap by weight not volume - but if you can't, there are 2tbs in an ounce.

I have not heard of doing this in the microwave - stove top is best, so good that you are doing that.

I would not recommend spraying or greasing your molds. It leaves an icky film on your soaps and is not necessary. The soap will come out of the mold when it is ready too.

Yes, when the soap is melted down, before you pour into your molds you add all the additives. Scent, color, etc.

Let me know if I missed something or if you have other questions!

Please note the following tips are for M&P soap. I include these tips with every kit I sell I thought this would be a really good time/place to offer them to this group:


PJ Soaps Tips and Tricks for Making Beautiful Soap

Whether you’ve taken one or more of the PJ Soaps Soap Making classes, purchased one of our Tool Kits (sold by Bramble Berry) or Pint Kits, you too can make beautiful Melt & Pour Soaps (Melt and Pour Soap bases sold by Bramble Berry).

1) Keep Everything Clean (hands, containers for melting, tools for stirring): You are working with very basic and natural products, and unlike soap at the grocery store these ingredients are not loaded with chemicals and preservatives. (Tip: PJ Soaps uses only SFIC’s Soap bases for its ultra high quality).

2) Don’t Overheat The Soap: The Soap Bases may be melted in a clean heat-resistant container in the microwave covered in plastic wrap for short bursts 40–55 seconds at a time then stirred ‘til completely melted. Overheating soap can cause some soaps to yellow or even feel grainy (from crystallization).

3) Melt Only As Much Soap As Needed: Melt only as much in one container as you want colored and scented the same. So if you want three bars of soap but all a different color or scent then use three containers. If you want one scent but three shades of blue you may use one container and just add more pigment after the first soap is poured.

4) SPF= Soap, Pigment, Fragrance: That is the order you’ll add your ingredients. Melt your soap, add the pigment then when the soap is still liquid but you can hold your pinkie finger tip in it without getting burned then you add your Fragrance or Essential Oil. (Tip: PJ Soaps uses only pigments, oxides & mica’s, no dyes and no bleeding colors.)

5) Think About Color Before You Melt: You have two kinds of soap in your kit, one is Opaque (Shea Butter) the other is Clear (Extra Lather Glycerin). Opaque soap will make many beautiful shades of pastel but if you want a dark color like black, deep red or midnight blue use the clear soap. For example, the amount of red pigment required to turn opaque soap blood red would be enormous and you will end up with a soap that gives off a blood red lather (and though it will not stain it’s a waste of pigment or a bad joke for Halloween). ;p

6) Soap May Be Reheated: If you melted, colored and scented too much red rose soap, don’t worry. Cover it, set it aside and re-melt it when you need to color a wagon red or add more soap & fragrance at a later date when you want to make more red rose soap. Just keep it tightly covered in plastic wrap

7) Layering Soap: Every single time you pour warm soap over cold soap if you want the two layers to adhere and not fall apart spray the cold surface with rubbing alcohol. If you forget this step your layers WILL fall apart.

It’s Only Soap: If it spills you’ve lost a little soap. If you don’t like the look of it save it for the dog’s next bath or re-melt it. Have Fun!

Paula
http://www.pjsoaps.com/1New.html

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PJ,
http://www.pjsoaps.com

I suggest you add no more than 2 teaspoons (10 mls) of liquid per 100 g of soap base. Larger amounts of liquid may change the appearance of the resulting soaps. Liquids can be milk (cow's milk, goat's milk, coconut milk etc.), distilled water or herbal teas. Keep in mind that milk or tea might discolor with heat. If you're planning to add colors (such as cosmetic grade oxides or ultramarines), adding milk or tea may affect the final results.

I suggest you add 1 to 2 teaspoons (5 to 10 mls) of extra oils per 100 g of soap base. If you wish to color your soaps, you can use this extra oil for dissolving powdered colors.

Oils or butters can be added at the beginning of the cook to obtain a smoother, easier to mold consistency. Adding oils at the beginning of the cook may however affect their "live" properties.

Always add your fragrance or essential oils when the cooked soap has cooled down a bit.

I particularly like this method because you are less likely to "burn" the soap or cause it to turn a caramel color.

Instructions:

1. Place a 3-quart pot of water on the stovetop and bring to a boil.

2. Grate your soap base or cut the soap into very small cubes.

3. Place the grated soap into an oven bag. Oven bags can be found at your local grocery store near the zip lock bags.

4. Close the open end of the bag with a rubber band.

5. Fold over the top of the bag and tie with another rubber band.

6. Place the bag into a boiling pot of water.

7. Boil for 1 hour untouched.

8. Carefully remove the bag from the water. Using warming mitts, to protect your hands, place the bag of soap on a counter and knead.

9. The soap will turn to a mushy smooth consistency. If at this point you have not reached this consistency, return to the bag of soap to the boiling water for 30 minutes. Repeat as needed.

10. Add your cosmetic grade fragrance and cosmetic grade color to the soap base. It is important to use cosmetic grade because these additives have been tested for skin contact. The last thing you want to do is make a beautiful soap to only have someone develop a reaction from a non-approved additive.

11. Twist the bag and close with another rubber band.

12. Knead the bag to completely mix the additives.

13. Snip the corner of the bag.

14. Spray your soap mold with a light coating of PAM or the oil of choice.

15. Squeeze the soap out of the bag into the molds. Like the technique that pastry cooks use to decorate cakes.

16. Smooth the top of the soap as needed.

17. Let the soap sit until firm. Our soap sat approximately 3 hours. Unmold.

18.Often the bottom of the bar of soap is irregular or uneven. You can use a knife or a soap planer to shave off the bumps.

19.Let the soap cure until fully hard. This will take anywhere from hours to a week. The length of time depends on the room temperature, humidity and the amount of fluid you added.

20. Package and enjoy!

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

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Laugh, learn and love. Give and receive.

Bramble Berry has lovely soap for rebatch!

Is the soap planer the same as a beveler?

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dragoness__1
The busy housewife
Having fun with Soap

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

_________________
dragoness__1
The busy housewife
Having fun with Soap