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Hi! Welcome to the forum! Just a few things to consider when you're making/using M&P: 1. Are the lab colors you used the low pH lab colors (they are specifically made for M&P use)? The high pH lab colors are for making cold process soaps and can sometimes react differently over time to M&P base IME so just doublecheck which ones you have. 2. Are your soaps in a well draining soap dish when not in use? If your soaps are sitting in water, the colorant can leach away in the water. 3. Are your soaps someplace where they are exposed to direct sunlight? Again, sunlight can "bleach" or fade away lab colors with prolonged exposure. 4. There are tons of different colorants that you can use that are available through Brambleberry which is also the host for this forum. If you are looking at jeweltone clear colors, low pH labcolors are the best especially if you are doing only one color but they do tend to migrate or bleed over time if used with other colors. For natural/rustic colors try different clays, activated charcoal, or some botanicals like kelp powder, chamomile, alkanet root powder. If you are looking for intense, unique or non-bleeding colors then try micas and pigments instead but even the clear M&P will become more opaque in color. If you want colors that are easy to use, then try Brambleberry's liquid colors or color blocks although most bleed/migrate over time and can make your M&P a little cloudy, depending on the look you're going for. And just FYI, if you use any of the white M&Ps like the bulk white or goat milk bases, of course your final soap color will always be a pastel color no matter how much colorant you use and your fragrance oil(s) can also affect the final soap color too. If the fragrance oil you use has ~2% vanillin content, then your soap will eventually turn brown even if you use vanilla color stabilizer (use 1:1 ratio VCS to FO). HTH!
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Armi
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