Teach Soap

I am sad. I made a batch of face cream which i have made before without a problem. This time it got all "leaky" on me and i don't know why. The recipe is the same as last time with the exception of one ingredient and I cannot imagine that change is what caused all this.

Here is my recipe:
Phase 1
chamomile infused water 40%

Phase 2
Hazelnut 16.5%
Jojoba 16.5%
Evening Primrose 8%
E Wax 5%
Stearic acid 3%

Phase 3
Essential oil 1%
vitamin E oil 1%
optiphen (preservative) 1.5%
german chamomile 1 ml for 8 oz. (this is the only thing i changed, last time i did .25ml for 8 oz)

So I melted the ewax and stearic in my double boiler. pulled it off the heat and added my oils, stir well.
Then i added my water (which was warmer than the oils and ewax mixture) and mixed well with my little electric mixer thing. I let everything cool to below 130 degrees and added my phase 3 ingredients. Again mix everything well and let stand in its container with the lid off.

It set up fine, once cool i put the lid on and put it away. When i went to use it about 3 hours later i noticed some liquid and it progressively got worse throughout the night......I am at a loss, does anyone have any thoughts on this? Is it something that i can save (the german chamomile is very expensive).

Thanks all,
Erin





Sorry trying to get a picture of it up here. I put them on snapfish..... http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/slide ... 185575022/

I bet it's the Optiphen. I've had curdling and separation issues with that one. I no longer use it in lotions and creams. It's just too fickle.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Thanks SB,
I guess there's no saving this one? Which preservative would you recommend for an oil/water emulsion?

Erin

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

According to the Optiphen info they say that it is not heat sensitive and can be added directly to the formulation with heat. However, it "can destabilize some emulsions, so for most emulsions, we recommend that Optiphen be added during POST-emulsification at or below 37.7°C (100°F)".

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Remember, it's not just that we weather the storm, but how we dance in the rain.

Tammy