Teach Soap

I want to make an ammonium lauryl sulfate and C betaine based shampoo, do you suggest a third surfactant also? Can I treat the ALS like SLS in a recipe? I was trying to find some cocomide mea or dea as a third surfactant but no one seems to sell it!

Any help from anyone is greatly appreciated!

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

The Chemistry Store sells cocamide DEA

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Genny

I just saw that, now to figure out the product difference between mea and dea. Thanks Genny!

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

What would you recommend as a thickener besides salt? Shampoos with salts make my scalp super itchy.

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

Also... THANKS!!!! Can't believe I forgot to say that! *ashamed* Thank you very very very much!!

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

Ah. OK. Thicken without salt.
Yes, I agree. My early shampoos were thickened with salt but I began to think, what was I doing trying to develop a mild shampoo only to pour salt into it. I mean, we know what swimming in the ocean does to our hair, right?
So I began asking the several local suppliers what they had. It turned out that one supplier could supply me with Glucamate VLT, which is a delightful thickener; typical use about 3% max. It provides a lovely cushioned hand-feel and that nice stringy viscosity that people love. Biodegradable 100% because it's a glucose product. You simply stir it in.
I've not tried Crothix but I believe it is something similar and comes in pastilles or liquid, I'd go for the liquid I think. I recall that I compared the price of the two of them a while ago and they were roughly the same. I believe BB and other US online suppliers will have Crothix, the Glucamate VLT might be more difficult.
One thing that helps is the humectant sorbitol. It's a good thickener as well as an excellent humectant. Try 1 - 2%

Alternatively, you can simply use DEA. The cationic/amphoteric shampoo I mentioned somewhere here in tolietries uses DEA as a thickener and no salt. I think it has 4% DEA. Works well; it boosts and maintains the foam and gives a nice cushioned hand-feel.
Try experimenting with 1/2L batches. Warning: addictive! I have seen some weird things messing with surfactants, like for instance, a 1L beaker full of shampoo suddenly turn into a spherical liquid crystal that behaved like rubber.

Ohh I have some liquid crothix, I should try that!! Thanks so much Barq!! Really appreciate it <3

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~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist