Teach Soap

It occurs to me that it might be useful to post what I know about this topic relating to creams.
My own formulations do not use any form of emulsifying wax. Instead I use carbomer (current best of these is Ultrez-20)
Why?
It's because I want a cream that absorbs quickly. Our active ingredients are IN the cream - they're no use sitting on top of the skin. Secondly, it can be a damn nuisance having to sit around with greasy hands unable to touch anything waiting for the cream to absorb.
Cross-polymers can give any consistency you like. They also create a medium which won't separate even if you're 'light' on emulsifiers.

Creams can be described by a two-word combination of light to heavy. EG:
light-light = a cream that goes on with a light touch and absorbs quickly.
heavy-light = a cream that is substantial, getting towards a butter in consistency, but still absorbs rapidly.
All my own formulations are of the type ?->light. The hand cream for instance is a heavy-light, the face cream is a medium-light, and the burns treatment cream is a light-light.
If I wanted to make a ?->heavy cream I would use an emulsifying wax instead of or in addition to the carbomer.

So, when you want to design a cream, first find out what your intended customer base prefers. Then formulate accordingly.

Carbomer can be tricky for homecrafters who don't have access to a pH meter or a lab. That's why most use either Polawax or e-wax NF as it's a complete emulsifier which doesn't need adjustment of pH. My lotion is such that it absorbs quickly, moisturizes yet doesn't feel greasy. Some of my customers are accountants or CPA's. They tell me that my lotion is the only one they can use because it doesn't leave a residue which could transfer to their papers.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

It's not really that difficult. You can use Machery &Nagel pH strips the first time to neutralise it, then you just add the same amount of base the next time. Agreed, it is a bit more complicated.