Teach Soap

I am new to making soap. I figured a good way to start would actually be trying to recreate a product I really like. So I have a baseline of sorts. This is a face wash for oily, possibly acne prone, skin. I was hoping you guys could take a look at what I've come up with:

This is the original ingredient list:

Water (Aqua)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sea Salt (Maris sal)
Glycerin
Polysorbate 20
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Methylisothiazolinone
d-Limonene
Linalool
Benzyl Benzoate


This is my modified ingredient list:

Water (Aqua)
Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Sea Salt (Maris sal)
Glycerin
Polysorbate 20 (Alternative?)
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Leucidal Liquid

As you can see, I've switched out the Sodium Laureth Sulfate & Cocamidopropyl Betaine for milder and safer surfactants. Of course, I dont really know the implications of this because I've never worked with any of these products, but I believe this will work out ok based on what I've read. I also cut all the preservatives for Leucidal Liquid.

I was wondering, why is the Polysorbate 20 even neccessary? I dont think I need an emulsifier for this. Can I take it out. If not, would it be ok to use a different one (such as SugarMulse, Olivem 1000, OR Olivoil Glutamate Emulsifier). Maybe I would need a thickner? Guar Gum?

Any advice on percentages? I have acne prone skin that is combination. I want to keep the ingredient list short at the moment, so unless you think it is absolutely necessary, I dont want to add anything. I am confused about the Polysorbate 20 especially. It is very high on the ingredient list.

Thanks for any help!

Polysorbate is a solubizer. It helps to mix the essential oils with water based ingredients. I have tried Leucidal liquid and it failed. Take a look at Susan's blog. She has some recipe there. http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I have looked at her blog. She doesnt say much about Polysorbate 20, and I really want to find a replacement for it.

The Herbarie has some recipes as well. http://www.theherbarie.com/The-Herbarie-Formulary.html

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Alright, thanks. I was really just trying to get some advice on staying true to the original recipe, but replacing the harsh or dangerous ingredients. Thanks for the links though

I would say google and do some research on all the ingredients you don't know much about, and then experiment some with your recipe to find what works for you.

I did a little research, and apparently, some alternatives to polysorbate 20 include soy lecithin, borax and beeswax (used together), and coconut oil. These replacements sound interesting, I would experiment with them! Not at equal rates I don't think, but still, if you're looking for another option...

Also, this link http://www.theherbarie.com/PlantaMulse-Liquid.html boasts a product that is supposedly a safer, more natural alternative to polysorbate 20. I really didn't look into it, but it might work.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.