Teach Soap

Are oxides the most reliable colorant for CP? (fadeing ,bleeding, dissapearing altogether? I've had this problem with some micas and liquid soap colorants.

I have the same ? I've had inconsistent results with all 3 types of colorants. I soaped BB violet FO, which I loved, but used violet oxide which has worked before and came up with tan in both cool and CPOP batches. Just now, I used purple passion lab color with a lavender/patchouli blend and was expecting the characteristic gray that usually turns purple later; however, it also is a muddy color but with some time to change. I've had some surprising luck with a few micas - yellow, cornflower blue, aqua pearl. Colorants keep providing surprises - some good, some not. My notes are becoming more and more detailed, as I hope to nail a set of colors that I'm comfortable with.

I think notes are the salution. Just like Fos are all diffrent there seems to be no hard rule on how much to use. At Christmas I made Fresh Snow ( which I like very much) but it was much stronger in my finished soap than I wanted. I sold most of that batch to a lady who smokes. She thought it was wonderful. Next Christmas when I make it I'll cut back on the amount by 1/3rd.

As everyone's favorite soap formula is different, the best way to know how the color behaves is to make a small batch and take very good notes on temps, how many minutes to trace, what was the lye strength, how much you superfatted, which FO or EO you used etc...

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

i get the truest results with oxides - but there are some shades that just aren't available, so i use micas and dyes, too. notes will keep you from wanting to pull your hair out when you need to duplicate something later.

(btw, gray results with violet oxide - are you using dark oils, with lots of yellow to the finished soap? that can really affect the purples.)

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What colore bleed in CP?

Back to my violet color saga - I did redo the soap adding Purple Passion Lab color, mixed first with raw soap, then added back into the rest of the batch. I did get color, but it was blotchy. Both batches went to rebatch heaven. When I cut the whiter looking soap, it was slightly lavender tinted inside, so I don't know if it would have turned eventually.

The rebatch was colored with the violet oxide and is compared with the original violet scented soap that I tried to color with violet oxide.

I'm thinking I need a different colorant or technique to get an even violet shade in CP soap. I can cut back on the OO, but I'm not sure that's the answer.
Thanks for looking and for any hints that might help with this color.

If you want it more purple, I would suggest FD&C Blue #1. That one morphs into a gorgeous blue purple.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Soapbuddy can you tell us the name of the FD&C Blue #1 on the BBerry web site. It seems that the names keep jumping around, sometimes this and sometimes that. Thank you.

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~bytheSEAsoap~ Mella bythesea, bythesea, bythebeautiful sea

海の皂

The Hyacinth and the Lavender colors both have FD&C Blue #1. So be aware that the color might start out peach in CP soap, then settle down to purple.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

Thank you. I see, but is that liquid, powder, oxide, ultramarine, pigment or just what type of colorant is it? Why am I so thick??

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~bytheSEAsoap~ Mella bythesea, bythesea, bythebeautiful sea

海の皂

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I've tryed to use Ultramarine Pink oxide ( twice now) it started out beautiful but faded to a very light Sick looking color within a few days. I thought oxides we're good in CP. Guess I was wrong. If a color ia bad in CP like this one or needs way more to do the job I wish the discription of the product said so before I order it. I've had some oxides work very well and some micas too, and some that just vanish. Help. How am I suppose to know before I ruin what Im making???