Teach Soap

My first batch of CP, anyway a little more than 24hrs, so I lifted it out of the mold an started to cut it up using my soap cutter and I got a few bars that did not yet fall apart, but I remember thinking I may have messed up when my lye was getting to cool so I added some more...a couple of times. Everything else I measured to the T. Working on trying to upload those photos.

TheGinger8

I'm not understanding what you're saying....like, you added more lye to heat it back up?

hmm..I'll let the experts come and weigh in here...but it sounds to me like you may have used to much lye and then your soap became brittle. Be careful with this soap batch..just in case it is lye heavy. Sorry for your soap troubles...it sucks having a trouble batch...good luck..

Yes I added more lye to the water to heat it up, I thought I read that I could, oops!, anyway I did feel the soap if feels soft, but I think you are right it may have turned brittle because when I sliced it there was a lot of crumble, I did get some whole pieces though. What should I do with it now.

Using a soap calculator like SOAPCALC or MMS you should measure your lye based on the oils you use and then NEVER add any more lye. This batch is likely lye heavy meaning it could burn if you use it.

Contrary to what you may read, soaping at an exact temperature is not as important as some would have you believe. Temperature can affect the PROCESS such as trace time etc, but I soap at room temperature and never have a problem with the outcome of the soap.

On the rare occasions when I do not soap at room temp, I usually find myself waiting for the lye to cool while not allowing the oils to cool too much. If you feel you must raise the temperature of either lye or oils you can use a double boiler or hot water bath in the sink etc. You can also use an ice water bath to go the other way. But generally I wouldn't worry about it.

As for your first batch... You can leave it cure for a couple of days and then zap test it (wet your finger, touch the soap, touch your tongue). Lye heavy soap will tingle like licking a battery. Good soap will simply bring back memories of saying bad words as a child.

If it zaps, you could possibly rebatch and add more oils but there is no way to calculate how much oil you need to add. I've seen posts where someone added chopped up soap to a new batch of HP and superfatted. During the HP process they cook the soap until it no longer zaps. You could try that or just sit this one aside until you are ready for that. Or you culd pitch it and chalk it up to experience.

If this batch doesn't zap - let it cure and USE IT!

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- Mickey!

Hi theginger8,
Congrats on your first CP batch and major lesson! NEVER add more lye than what your lye calculator had told you to add. You can add less, but never more. The brittleness of your soap indicates it is quite possibly lye heavy and cannot be used. Someone else who has rebatch experience may have a way to save it, but I cannot help you there. Don't worry about how cool your lye water is--- just make sure it is dissolved. Your oils can be room temp or slightly warmer than room temp. If you need heat, warm your oils slightly--- never mess with the lye end.

This is a great learning lesson so don't feel frustrated--- get in there and start your next batch!

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How much lye did the recipe call for, and how much extra did you add?

Since you're brand new to this, I'd be inclined to toss it and start over. There are ways to correct it, but they take some calculation and experience to pull off correctly. It's easy to still end up with lye-heavy chunks if you don't use the right methods.

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I would toss it and start over. Never add more lye than the recipe asks for. If you need some basic recipes I would start here: http://www.millersoap.com/#Soap%20Contents

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I always soap at room temperature. I don't like to gel, so I let everything cool before mixing. It makes great soap.

Good luck with the next batch!

What is considered room temperature? I soap in my garage which is usually around 60 degrees all year long? I find this rather cool. I soap at about 115 degrees. I guess second question is: Does it matter how cool it is? Somewhere on one of the threads I thought I read where someone's oils & lye cooled too quickly and reached a "false" trace"? I'm a little confused??? Can anyone help out?

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I guess "room temperature" was vague--sorry! I am in Virginia, so right now, it's around 80F. I usually use more liquid oils than solid oils/butters, so I'll let them get to 100. I've been soaping less than a year, but have not had a single failed batch. My humble opinion on some of the "rules" for soapmaking is that they are not all necessary. For example, I made a dozen successful batches before I even bought a thermometer. However, weighing and using the right amount of lye is definately necessary.

I suggest you continue to use the forum as a resource. The people here have generously given me a lot of great answers to questions. My only problem now is that I am addicted to making soap. At least it's a clean hobby<--(pun intended).

Woah.

Yeah, everyone's given you great advice. Lye needs to be very precise. Like, digital scale precise. The forums have lots and lots of info....I know you're excited about having something tangible in your hands, but please DO YOUR RESEARCH!!