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Teach Soap • View topic - What can i do to save this batch of ssoap

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:51 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2015 4:38 pm
Posts: 3
I made 4 pounds of soap and divided into two 2 pound molds...one mold is wood and the other is the white plastic loaf mold (the...I usually soap at 110 degrees for both lye and oils.....here is the recipe I used......1lb 8 oz water, 9.7 oz lye, 2 lb 10 oz Olive oil, 1 lb 5 oz coconut oil and I superfatted with Castor Oil at trace with 4 tbsp.

When I mixed the oils and lye the temps were around 100 degrees F. At light trace, I separated soap. Added 3 tbsp Oatmeal Honey fragrance oil along with ground up oatmeal.

The second batch was fragranced with 3 tbsp Champagne. Both were poured into the molds and I let sit for 24 hours..covered both molds with plastic wrap and the plastic mold I wrapped with a dish towel.

When I unmold, the Honey oatmeal loaf was pliable almost like play dough.....

The second mold was hard but it looks like litte drops of oil throughout the soap...the bars are not oily though....

Can I reheat these soaps to get them to saponify. I was thinking of either putting the bars in the over or cutting up into small pieces and heating up in the crock pot....

Any advice is welcome!!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2014 4:00 pm
Posts: 33
First off, it is better to measure all your ingredients by weight not volume ( ounces vs. tablespoons). Secondly, with such a high percentage of Olive Oil your soap is going to be soft and pliable a lot longer than a recipe with more hard oils. I didn't run your recipe through a lye calculator, but if you did that and the recipe is right, it may just need a few extra days to set.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 3:30 am 

Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2015 4:38 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks for that advice
...I measure my oils, lye and water by weight....the fragrance Is done by volume because I was using Brambleberry calculator and I formulated the castor oil to know what a tbsp weighs....those are the only things I measure that way...the rest is by weight...I have been using this recipe for years and this was the first time I tried a lower temp....I have bees soap information for 8 years and this is the first time this has ever happened


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 24336
Location: Mistress Of Lather
First off, there is no need to add any oil or butter at trace. Lye at trace is still very active and it will take whatever it wants. There is no guarantee that any particular oil or butter added at trace will end up as your superfat. I can't calculate castor into your recipe since you didn't go by weight.

For this size batch (without the calculated castor) your recipe looks like this:
Coconut Oil 21 33.33
Olive Oil 42 66.67
Total Weight 63

For that size batch, you would need 16-24 ozs. of water and
8.8 ozs. of lye for a 7% superfat.

You can weigh your castor and recalculate it into this recipe.
A high olive oil soap will take longer to harden. If the soap did not gel, then it can take longer to harden too. I would also recalculate this recipe and make a smaller batch; like 32 ozs. instead of 63 ozs.

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.


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