Teach Soap

Can someone please tell me what is going on here with this batch, should I be worried and can I fix it? My 1st 2 batches have been pretty simple with no color/fo so this time I tried both I used pink ultramarine and a raspberry jasmine scent.

Also, is the only purpose for putting a towel on to force the gel stage? I am not sure I would risk the towel and gel if it cracks like this.

One more little thing, this is my first time using this wood mold that my awesome Husband made yesterday!

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

It looks like it overheated. Wood holds the heat much better than silicone molds and if you insulated it with a towel that could cause the crack. A lot depends on the temp of your lye/oil mix, the FO, if the soap gremlins are around...

Insulating does help force the gel phase. If you want to try not gelling your soap, put it in the fridge right after you pour it. Just remember that ungelled soap takes longer to saponify (up tp 3 days) and it will usually be softer at first.

_________________
Linda
I know the voices in my head aren't real, but they sure have some great ideas!

It overheated. Florals tend to accelerate trace or heat up. Keep good notes and next time you use the same FO, insulate lightly or none at all.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

What a shame, your color and textured top looked lovely.

With my wooden molds my honey made (yay, handy honies!), if I insulate I check in on it every 20 minutes or so to see how it's gelling. If it seems to be heating up all over I will remove the towel.

_________________
Laura<3

Thanks on the top, it was kind of a fluke that I ran with. The soap started to get too thick so I played a little after pouring it into the mold.

Yes I was afraid it was an over heat Why do soapers like the 'gel phase'? I thought the soap was mostly saponified at trace, and it finished the work within the 4-6 weeks. Have I read things all wrong? If I didn't towel my mold, would my soap still be ok? I have been peaking a lot at the batch this time and also noticed liquid on the top...is that part of the 'setting up'? I actually have the towel off and it seemed to gel further out but its setting up I think now.

I can't wait to cut this soap and see how it looks, I put color free on the bottom and kind of swirled it a little to see what would happen. If its looks that bad with the crack, maybe I could just cut that part off(or I would if selling it which I won't be at this point yet)...I am sure my family won't mind the little imperfection!

I tried to see a light trace but am sure I missed it and started my color stuff at a meduim or more trace. Is it really hard to see the light trace? I am only afraid I won't mix enough, in which case the soap would be bad, correct?

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

I like gelling my soaps for 2 reasons: 1 the colours get brighter, and 2 you can unmold or cut sooner.

Soap has merely begun to saponify at trace. If you gel your soap then this happens during the gel phase, if not you must wait 2 or 3 days for saponification to conclude. This is why soap zaps for a longer time when not gelled, the lye is still reacting with the oils. There is no need to insulate with a towel. This is done to promote gel phase. If you wanted you could put your soap into the fridge or freezer right after pouring and it would stiff saponify, but generally not gel (unless you get one of those super heater-upers!).

The liquid on your soap is probably from overheating and should reabsorb in a day or two.

I've personally not had trouble seeing light trace, but I also don't generally mix my soap that far. I mix to the "emulsified" stage. Usually. Because I love to do swirls! This is the stage when you're sure everything is well incorporated but the soap hasn't reached a trace stage yet. I think of light trace as being like pudding mix. After you've mixed in the milk and it just starts to thicken... that's what light trace is like!

_________________
~~Heather~~
Mad [soaping] Scientist

By the time it gets to that light stage its going to be hard to put details into the soap. I do use a hand blender, so its ok to make sure things are well mixed but still quite runny to start my colors and things. I thought getting it to trace was important before pouring...I have read so much that perhaps I have overloaded my brain

What is this 'zap' I keep hearing about? Am I suppose to do it? I was going to just leave my soaps the full 6 weeks before using them to make sure they aren't lye heavy!

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

Soap is not saponified at trace. It takes up to 48 hours for gelled soap to completely saponify. It takes up to three days for Ungelled soaps to saponify. There are different stages of trace; light, medium and heavy. I prefer to work at light trace, so I can swirl. The zap can be from soaping with cool oils that have started to solidify, incomplete trace, incompatible fragrance or overheating. If you dampen you finger, put that finger on your soap, then touch it to your tongue, that could tell you if the soap zaps. Soap can also zap if your weights are not accurate.

If the soap is lye heavy, leaving it to cure for six weeks, won't make the lye go away.

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

I use the soapcalc.net for my recipes so hopefully they are ok. I have never done the zap, should I be doing so with each batch. Zap on your tongue as in it hurts or stings?

Are EO used the same way in soap. 1oz per pound?

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

You should check for zap with each batch. Wait a few days after you've unmolded to do it. I always do it by wetting my finger with water and then run it lightly over the soap, then touching my finger to my tongue. If it just tastes like soap, it's good. If you get a zap or a little shock, then it still has active lye in it. You will know zap when you actually feel it.

With EO's it's not always 1 oz/lb. Actually with FO's it's not always 1 oz/lb either. It matters what the strength of the EO's are. Some EO's, like clover or peppermint, I'd use at 0.5 oz/lb. Whereas Orange or Vanilla Absolute, I'd use more. You can use BB's fragrance/EO calculator
http://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragr ... lator.aspx

_________________
Genny

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.

The place I have bought these FO's have told me 1oz per pound but I have so far used what the soapcalc has given me for them. I know some EO are really strong, trial and error I suppose!

Thanks all for the helpful quick responses...4th batch of soap just finished and this time I tried swirling it. It is kind of lop sided but I am pretty proud of it for my first real swirl attemp Can't wait to cut my batches from today!

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

Here are my 2 batches from yesterday, the swirls are a little lop sided but I was happy it turned out for my first try! The pink one was the overheat and it doens't look that bad...other than the weird color on the inside but maybe that will fix itself with curing





I also think there might be a little ash on the top of the pink one, that doesn't hurt anyone though right!

_________________
www.fostersfields.ca
https://www.facebook.com/FostersFields

They look great! Love your black and white swirlies

Ash is not harmful at all.

_________________
Genny

The black & white is pretty!

_________________
Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.