COLOR PREP: Disperse the pigments in 1/2 Tablespoon of liquid oil each. Use a mini mixer to make quick work of the dispersing, but be sure to saturate the powdered pigments in the oil with the tip of the mixer before turning it on (or you’ll wind up with a bit of a mess!).

MOLD PREP: Line the Wood Mold with freezer paper shiny side up.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves are your soap making uniform. Be sure that kids and pets are out of the house or unable to access your soaping space, and always soap in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the soap volume will not fill up more than half of your crock pot. If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt before trying out this tutorial.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water. Stir until clear, then set aside to cool.

TWO: Melt and combine the Palm and Coconut Oils. Add the Shea Butter to the warmed oils and still until melted. Add the Meadowfoam, Olive, and Sweet Almond Oil and stir to combine. Pour the oils into your Crock Pot’s pot. Slowly add the lye water to the oils.

Adding Lye Water to the Oils THREE: . Mix with a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved.

Thick Trace

FOUR: Put the lid on the Crock Pot and set it to low. After 15 minutes, check the soap to see the progress made. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change. If the middle does not appear to be changing, stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume and tries to climb out of the pot. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 30 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, take the pot off heat and stir like crazy. Partially Cooked Soap

FIVE: The batch will be ready when it’s the texture of mashed potatoes. This may take another 15 minute session or even two or three more stir’n’waits. When you think it’s ready, use a pH strip to test the levels. It should be showing below a 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap; you don’t want too dry a texture for the next steps!

Cooked Soap NOTE: The amount of time that the soap takes in the Crock Pot phase can depend on the size and shape of your Crock Pot. The flatter ones meant for roasts may go a bit quicker because the soap will be spread out thinner on the heated surface. The crock pot in the Soap Queen Lab is a stainless steel industrial one, so my soap cooked fairly quickly.

SIX: When the soap is ready, add the Sleigh Ride Fragrance Oil and mix well. Split the soap into three even parts (you can totally eyeball this part).

Adding FO

SEVEN: Color one split batch with 1/2 teaspoon of the dispersed Burgundy Oxide, another with 1/2 teaspoon of the dispersed Yellow Oxide, and the third batch with 1 teaspoon of the Hydrated Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in each of the colors well.

Colored Soap

EIGHT: “Plop” a small dollop of the Burgundy colored soap in 2-3 random spots in the lined 2 pound Wood Mold. Follow up with the Chrome Green and Yellow colored soaps, dolloping each randomly through the mold. Repeat this process, alternating colors, until the mold is full.

TIP: Tamp the mold on the table after each color to get rid of any air bubbles that might form during the plopping process. You want to work fast because warm soap adheres better than cool soap.

Plopped Soap NINE: Using a spatula or piece of plastic wrap, press the soap into the mold while at the same time forming an even and rounded top layer. The soap is very warm and should not be touched without a barrier between your hands and the soap.

TEN: Allow the soap to harden in the mold for 1-2 days. Unmold and cut. This soap is ready to use right away but will last longer in the shower after a full 4-6 week drying time. Cool Camo

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